GWM Tank 300 Spare Tyre and Jack Guide: Tool Locations, Lifting Points and Torque
The GWM Tank 300 carries its jack, warning triangle and on-board tool kit under the luggage area cover, the fire extinguisher in the front passenger footwell, and the reflective vest, document pack, first aid kit and tyre gauge in the storage case in the instrument panel ahead of the front passenger. The spare tyre hangs on the tailgate and needs the mechanical key to unlock. Wheel nuts must be tightened to 120 newton metres, plus or minus 10, and the vehicle must be in P, never N, before jacking.
Where the tools actually live
Three locations, and none of them are obvious from the driver's seat.
Instrument panel storage case, in front of the front passenger:
- Reflective vest
- On-board document package
- First aid kit
- Tyre gauge
Front passenger footwell floor:
- Fire extinguisher
Under the luggage area cover:
- Jack
- Warning triangle
- On-board tool kit
Depending on configuration, some models do not carry a first aid kit, tyre gauge or fire extinguisher. Check your own vehicle rather than assuming.
Learn the placement before you need it, and return everything to its designated position afterwards. Loose tools in a cabin become projectiles. The fire extinguisher and the first aid kit medicine both have expiry dates, so they need checking on a schedule.
Reference table
| Attribute | Wheel nuts | Jack | Spare tyre | Wheel chocks |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Location | On each wheel | Under the luggage cover | Mounted on the tailgate | Not supplied |
| Measurement (key figure) | 120 N·m, plus or minus 10 | Vehicle-specific, this model only | Check pressure and condition regularly | Two, both sides, diagonal wheel |
| Tool required | Wheel nut wrench, then torque wrench | Jack adjustment lever | Mechanical key | None |
| Owner serviceable | Yes | Yes | Yes | Purchase from service centre |
| Common failure | Under or over tightening | Wrong lifting point | Neglected pressure | Not used at all |
Chocks are not optional equipment. The manual states the chock must be used together with the jack, and if you do not have one, a rock large enough to stabilise the tyre can substitute.
Lifting points are not "anywhere under the sill"
The vehicle has designated lifting positions split by tool type: some suit a workshop lifter, one suits the supplied jack, and one suits either. Lifting anywhere else can damage the vehicle or cause an accident.
When positioning the jack, take care not to bump the pipeline. Never put any part of your body under a lifted vehicle, and never work on one that is not properly supported.
Recognising a flat before it becomes a repair bill
Three symptoms should make you check the tyres: the steering wheel shakes, the vehicle vibrates abnormally, or the vehicle leans at an abnormal angle.
If a tyre fails while driving, hold the wheel firmly and brake gently. Emergency braking and sudden steering are both prohibited, because either can put the vehicle out of control.
Change it immediately rather than pressing on. Continuing on a flat damages rims, wheels, suspension and the body.
Preparing to change a wheel
- All passengers exit the vehicle.
- Park on hard, flat ground clear of traffic where you can work safely.
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift to P and shut the vehicle down. Never jack the vehicle in N, because the jack cannot support it stably.
- Turn on the hazard flashers and place the warning triangle.
- Gather the spare, jack, jack adjustment lever, wheel nut wrench and chocks.
The change itself, in order
- Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being replaced, on both sides of that tyre.
- Remove the wheel nut trim covers with the supplied removal tool, if fitted.
- Loosen each nut about one turn counterclockwise in the pattern shown in the manual, while the wheel is still on the ground.
- Position the jack at the correct lifting point and adjust it so it sits stably.
- Raise the vehicle by combining the jack, adjustment lever and wheel nut wrench, keeping the adjustment lever coaxial with the rotation centre of the jack screw. Lift slightly first, check everything looks right, then continue.
- Remove the nuts and the wheel. Lay it down with the spokes facing up.
- Slide the removed wheel under the vehicle before fitting the spare, as insurance against the jack shifting.
- Clean the wheel mounting surface. Debris left there lets nuts loosen in service, and a loose wheel leaves the vehicle.
- Fit the spare and tighten the nuts with roughly equal force, making sure each nut fully contacts the mounting surface.
- Lower the vehicle and tighten the nuts two to three times in the correct order.
- Torque to 120 newton metres, plus or minus 10, with a torque wrench as soon as possible.
- Refit trim covers, stow the faulty tyre and secure every tool in its designated position.
Wheel nut rules worth memorising
- Do not step on the wrench or use other tools to over-tighten. It damages the nuts.
- Do not apply lubricant or grease to the nuts. Over-tightened nuts damage the wheel, loose nuts lose the wheel.
- Do not use damaged, cracked or deformed nuts or wheels.
- Get a proper torque reading as soon as you can. Nuts tightened by feel work loose.
Working with the tailgate spare
The spare hangs on the tailgate, which means a locked carrier and a specific sequence. Close the tailgate first, then open the cover plate on the spare tyre cover with a flathead screwdriver. The mechanical key unlocks the lock cylinder, and the removal socket and wheel nut wrench handle the retaining hardware. Reassembly is the reverse.
One trap worth remembering: when refitting, hold the lock cylinder by hand while withdrawing the key. Skip that and the key jams on removal and reinsertion.
Once the spare is on, drive carefully. Because it sees little use, its friction coefficient differs slightly from the other three. Repair the original tyre and swap back as soon as practical, and keep the spare's pressure and condition on your regular check list, as covered in our tyre pressure guide.