GWM Tank 300 Post Off-Road Care: Underbody Checks, Washing and Paint Protection

After driving over grass, mud, gravel, sand or a river crossing, check the underside of the GWM Tank 300 for weeds, branches, gravel and sand and remove them, because continuing with that debris in place can cause a malfunction or a fire. Check that the brakes work normally, inspect the air filter immediately after sand driving, reinflate the tyres to standard pressure, and wash the vehicle in shade rather than direct sunlight. Dry it with a soft towel instead of letting it air dry.

The five-point post-trip check

Work through these before the vehicle goes back in the shed.

1. Underbody debris. Weeds, branches, gravel and sand collect under the body after grass, mud, gravel, sand or river driving. Remove them. Driving on with that material risks malfunction and fire.
2. Brakes. After sand, mud, water or snow, confirm the brakes work normally. Mud and sand adhering to the brake disc affects braking and damages brake system components.
3. Air filter. Sand and dust affect it severely. Check it immediately after driving on sand, and daily in dusty conditions. Clean or replace anything abnormal, or the engine can be damaged.
4. Tyre pressure. If you aired down, reinflate to standard pressure before road use, as covered in our tyre pressure guide.
5. Radiator and fan. Check the radiator, fan and other heat-radiating components, especially after water, sand or mud. Our coolant guide explains why airflow matters as much as fluid.

One piece of trip planning that follows from point three: carry at least one spare air filter when you are heading into dusty country.

Comparison table: what each surface leaves behind

Washing without damaging the paint

Corrosive substances attack the paint the longer they sit. The list the manual gives is specific: insects, bird droppings, tree resins, road dust, industrial fallout, tar, soot and snow melt salt.

High temperatures make it worse, so sun exposure accelerates the damage. Remove corrosive material as soon as you see it rather than waiting for the vehicle's next full wash.

Wash in shade. If the vehicle has been parked in direct sunlight, move it into shade and wait for the body surface to cool before you start.

The three-step method

1. Check for fallen leaves, bird droppings and similar first. Remove them, then rinse immediately with clean water so the surface finish is not damaged.
2. Wash thoroughly with water to remove surface dust, using water and a soft brush, a sponge, or a soft cloth.
3. Dry with a chamois or soft towel. Do not let the vehicle dry naturally, because that costs the paint its lustre and leaves water stains.

Four cautions go with that:

• No acid, strong alkaline or strong chemical cleaning agents. Prolonged soaking in strong detergents seriously corrodes the paint and bright trim.
• Test the brakes afterwards. After washing, or after driving through a flooded road, press the brake pedal lightly to confirm normal function.
• In cold weather, do not flush the gaps around keyholes or doors, or the lock and seal strips can freeze.
• Do not open the fuel door to rinse inside it.

Waxing, carefully

Wax helps protect the vehicle, and the body must be thoroughly cleaned before waxing for the wax to work.

The caution worth taking seriously is that car waxes vary widely in performance. The wrong product can discolour the paint rather than protect it. Vehicle age, paint colour and driving environment all affect which wax suits, so ask an authorised service centre or a professional if you are unsure.

Fix chips before they become rust

Check the body regularly for peeled paint and scratches, and repair them immediately to prevent corrosion of the exposed metal.

Touch-up paint is for small chips and scratches only. Large areas of missing paint should be repaired by professionals.

For a vehicle that spends time on gravel and scrub-lined tracks, this is a monthly job rather than an annual one. A stone chip on the leading edge of a bonnet is where rust starts on a four wheel drive.

Lamp covers: what not to use on them

All exterior lamps are LED units. They cannot be disassembled or replaced individually, so damage means a workshop visit rather than a bulb.

Do not use chemical solvents or strong cleaning agents on the lamp covers. They damage the cover itself.

Do not modify external lighting or signalling devices.

Fog inside a lamp cover on a rainy day is normal. It is caused by the temperature difference between the air inside and outside the lamp, the same way a window fogs. If a significant amount of water or water vapour accumulates inside, that is different and needs an authorised service centre.

One more, relevant to anyone touring loaded: if you often carry heavy items, the front combination lamps may need recalibration, and that is a service centre job.

Interior cleaning, briefly

• Ventilate. Open the doors or raise the windows while cleaning, because cleaning agents can contain harmful substances.
• Use products made for vehicle interiors and follow the instructions on the package.
• Keep liquid away from the instrument panel, the floor and nearby electrical components, because water entering causes malfunctions.
• Never clean the vehicle floor with water. It causes body corrosion.
• Vacuum the carpets regularly. Dirt left in them increases wear.

Common mistakes Tank 300 owners make

• Leaving mud, weeds and branches under the vehicle. The manual lists malfunction and fire as the outcomes.
• Washing in direct sunlight on a hot panel.
• Letting the vehicle air dry, then wondering about water spots and dull paint.
• Reaching for a strong degreaser to shift stubborn mud.
• Pressure washing the sunroof seals, sensors or lock gaps.
• Skipping the air filter check after a sand trip.
• Driving away on trail pressures after washing the vehicle.
• Leaving stone chips until the next service.
• Cleaning lamp covers with solvent.
• Hosing out the cabin floor.